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The primary bevel is honed on the coarse stone and secondary bevel on the fine stones. With a bevel this large, and with proper hand position as shown, it is simple to “feel” the bevel so as to not add rocker to the primary bevel. Then I strop both edges on the 8 inch buffing wheel with Knifemaker’s Green Roug.
You should use a leather strap if you haven’t done a lot of freehand buffing, as catching an edge and throwing this piece downwards is an excellent route to arterial bleeding. Now we do the second critical part… reading the work piece.
Pushing a felt tip pen against the board firmly will cause ink to seep along the grain line where it is not obvious. On this plank of Red Alder I have marked the grain… you can see the grain run out that occurs even in a properly milled board around the knots…
….and where there was a knot nearby even though it isn’t evident in the board. I’ve also marked the only direction the drawknife will successfully cut.
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