CONTENTS
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PAGE |
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SECTION I. |
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INTRODUCTION. |
1-5 |
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Priming or Preparing the Surface to be Japanned |
4 |
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The First Stage in the Japanning of Wood or of
Leather without a Priming |
5 |
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SECTION II. |
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JAPAN GROUNDS. |
6-19 |
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White Japan Grounds |
7 |
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Blue Japan Grounds |
9 |
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Scarlet Japan Ground |
9 |
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Red Japan Ground |
10 |
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Bright Pale Yellow Grounds |
10 |
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Green Japan Grounds |
10 |
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Orange-Coloured Grounds |
11 |
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Purple Grounds |
11 |
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Black Grounds |
11 |
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Common Black Japan Grounds on Metal |
12 |
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Tortoise-shell Ground |
12 |
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Painting Japan Work |
13 |
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Varnishing Japan Work |
17 |
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SECTION III. |
|
JAPANNING OR ENAMELLING METALS. |
20-28 |
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Enamelling Bedstead Frames and similar large pieces |
24 |
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Japanning Tin, such as Tea-trays and similar goods |
25 |
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Enamelling Old Work |
27 |
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SECTION IV. |
|
THE ENAMELLING AND JAPANNING STOVE—PIGMENTS SUITABLE
FOR JAPANNING WITH NATURAL LACQUER—MODERN METHODS OF
JAPANNING WITH NATURAL JAPANESE LACQUER. |
29-48 |
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Appliances and Apparatus used in Japanning and
Enamelling |
29 |
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Modern Japanning and Enamelling Stoves |
34 |
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Stoves heated by direct fire |
34 |
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Stoves heated by hot-water pipes |
36 |
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Pigments suitable for Japanning with Natural Lacquer |
45 |
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White Pigments |
45 |
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Red Pigments |
46 |
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Blue Pigment |
46 |
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Yellow Pigments |
46 |
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Green Pigment |
46 |
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Black Pigment |
46 |
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Methods of Application |
46 |
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Modern Methods of Japanning and Enamelling with
Natural Japanese Lacquer |
47 |
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SECTION V. |
|
COLOURS FOR POLISHED BRASS.—MISCELLANEOUS. |
49-57 |
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Painting on Zinc or on Galvanized Iron |
49 |
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Bronzing Compositions |
49 |
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Golden Varnish for Metal |
51 |
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Carriage Varnish |
51 |
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Metal Polishes |
51 |
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Black Paints |
52 |
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Black Stain for Iron |
53 |
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Varnishes for Ironwork |
55 |
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SECTION VI. |
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PROCESSES FOR TIN-PLATING. |
58-60 |
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Amalgam Process |
59 |
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Immersion Process |
59 |
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Battery Process |
59 |
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Weigler's Process |
60 |
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Hern's Process |
60 |
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SECTION VII. |
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GALVANIZING. |
61-66 |
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INDEX. |
67-69 |
HANDBOOK ON JAPANNING
SECTION I
INTRODUCTION
Japanning, as it is generally understood in Great Britain, is the art
of covering paper, wood, or metal with a more or less thick coating of
brilliant varnish, and hardening the same by baking it in an oven at a
suitable heat.
It originated in Japan—hence its name—where the
natives use a natural varnish or lacquer which flows from a certain
kind of tree, and which on its issuing from the plant is of a creamy
tint, but becomes black on exposure to the air. It is mainly with the
application of "japan" to metallic surfaces that we are concerned in
these pages. Japanning may be said to occupy a position midway between
painting and porcelain enamelling, and a japanned surface differs from
an ordinary painted surface in being far more brilliant, smoother,
harder, and more durable, and also in retaining its gloss permanently,
in not being easily injured by hot water or by being placed near a
fire; while real good japanning is characterized by great lustre and
adhesiveness to the metal to which it has been applied, and its
non-liability to chipping—a fault which, as a rule, stamps the common
article.
If the English process of japanning be more simple and produces a
less durable, a less costly coating than the Japanese method, yet its
practice is not so injurious to the health. Indeed, it is a moot point
in how far the Japanese themselves now utilize their classical
process, as the coat of natural japan on all the articles exhibited at
the recent Vienna exhibition as being coated with the natural lacquer,
when recovered after six months' immersion in sea water through the
sinking of the ship, was destroyed, although it stood perfectly well
on the articles of some age.
In the English method, where necessary, a
priming or undercoat is employed. It is customary to fill up any
uneven surface, any minute holes or pores, and to render the surface
to be japanned uniformly smooth. But such an undercoat or priming is
not always applied, the coloured varnish or a proper japan ground being applied
directly on the surface to be japanned. Formerly this
surface usually, if not always, received a priming coat, and it
does so still where the surface is coarse, uneven, rough, and
porous. But where the surface is impervious and smooth, as
in the case of metallic surfaces, a priming coat is not applied.
It is also unnecessary to apply such a coat in the case of
smooth, compact, grained wood.