Take the Front 5-1/4" board and measure over 4" inches from one edge and draw a line length wise.  Measuring from one end, measure down the line and put a mark a 1" inch.  Mark all the rest down the line at 1-1/4" on center.  When you get to the other end you should have 1" inch on each end and 1-1/4" through the middle.

Now take a 1" inch Forstner bit and drill holes at these marks all the way through. I used a Drill Press, because I can't make that nice of holes by hand.  You know you have to use those things now and then to keep them from rusting solid.

 

Use a back-up board to prevent tear out.  When all the holes are completed, rip down the 4" inch line cutting all holes in half.  This will give you 17 handle notches.  Sand the rough edges of the holes.  Drill/counter sink and attach Front with 4---2" Drywall Screws to the bottom.

 

    Now stand the Sawtill on its side and drill/counter sink and attach end caps with twelve (12) 1-5/8" Drywall Screws, six on each end. (See plan drawing)

Take the 2x4x22" and lay on edge and with a tape measure from one end mark at 1" inch, then mark a 1-1/4" on centers to the other end.  Same way you did the Front piece.  Square across each of these marks. 

Take any hand saw that cuts a wide kerf, and cut down each line to a depth of 2" inches.  You want them wide enough to allow the blade to slide in and out easily.

These seventeen 2x4 cuts and the 17 notches in you Front piece will now match each other.  Clamp the 2x4 Blade Slot piece 12" inches down from the top and drill/counter sink six holes through the Back into the 2x4, make sure you don't drill into one of the slots.  Attach with six (6) 2" Drywall Screws.

 

   

To mount back to back attach with six (6) 6x32 bolts, nuts and washers, three each side.  (Top, middle, and bottom. See drawing)

I haven't put a finish on mine, as of yet, but one day when it gets warmer I plan on putting on several coats of Orange Shellac (may say Amber in the hardware store).  I like Orange Shellac rather than Clear Shellac for a project like this because it gives Knotty Pine that old aged look.  In your case the choice of finish is up to you. 

Another nice touch I plan on doing, is to cut strips of colored flannel material and glue to the edges of the handle notches to protect the backs of the hand saws.  Since the saw Front is 3/4" wide, cut the flannel an 1" wide so you have an 1/8" overhang on each side of the notches.  You can buy flannel in nice looking Red, Green, Gold and probably several other colors, at most fabric stores.  You know the ones Women frequent, but don't be intimidated, barge right on in. 

 

One final thought, if you are going to screw the finished sawtills flat on stud walls be sure and use screws at least 2-1/2" to 3", these things can get quite heavy on a wall.  If you intend to build a wall shelf as I did and use sawtills back to back in sets then make sure you put screws through the bottoms and into the shelves for security.

 

Hope this helps with at least one of your storage problems,

 

 

Plans