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As I really only need the iron phosphate residue to seal the remaining pits, which are magnets for the salt and moisture that causes more rust, I buff off the gray iron phosphate using green rouge on an 8-inch, 1750-rpm wheel to bring the steel surface to a high shine. A soft wire brush can also be used to remove the gray before buffing, but with the danger of digging out the iron phosphate protecting the remaining pits.
Then I degrease, first using mineral spirits to clean off the rouge, followed by trichloroethylene to remove the mineral spirits and bring the steel to a state of surgical cleanliness. Rubber gloves are worn to both prevent fingerprints and protect the skin from the TCE, a strong solvent and suspected carcinogen… and the gouge placed on a clean, paper surface.
When the TCE is dry, I liberally swab the steel with a proprietary phosphate bluing preparation made by Brownell’s in Iowa. This isn’t just any cold, touch-up gun blue sold at sporting goods stores… you’ll find the after rust on those disastrous and their durability and protection minimal. This phosphate blue builds up on the surface of the steel to the point where water puddles on it, and applied correctly, is extremely durable. Note throughout that I pour the solution into a separate pan so as to not contaminate the container with dirty swabs and expended chemical.
After the first swabbing, I place the wet gouge on a slightly-warm stove for the bluing solution to work for 5 minutes or so and then to dry. Then I degrease again using TCE and apply a second coat of bluing using a gray Scotchbrite pad vigorously, doing my best to scrub off the first coat of bluing. I repeat the drying and degreasing procedure, and apply a third coat using a milder white Scotchbrite pad. After drying, I hand buff using soft paper towels before applying oil. Each cycle burnishes the steel and adds to the durability of the surface, and you can do as many as you like.
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