As you approach the finished size you are looking for, slowly lower the grinder using more and more of the disk surface.  Ease back on the pressure because this builds heat very quickly.  Final flattening you do with the disk very nearly flat.  As much contact with the wheel as you can control. 

Very light touch now and lots of quenching.  I keep a bucket of water and a cotton rag to quench the work so I don't have to keep removing and replacing it in the vise just to cool it off.

OK enough from the grinding.  For this knife, one I intend to keep and use forever, clenched over tangs, while certainly viable for much work, tend to loosen as time goes on. 

All you need to do is examine any number of drawknives and you will find loose handles in a substantial percentage of them.  A common old knifemaker's trick for better grades of work, is to thread the tangs and use some kind of bolt to hold the handles.  This way, you can draw the handle on with much greater pressure in the first place.  And when the inevitable loosening though time and work and shrinkage occurs, its just a matter tightening them back up again.

My tangs had been taper forged long and thin, and there wasn't enough material to thread them.  So instead I cut threads off a couple of long 1/4" bolts, cut the tangs back to the appropriate length, and welded them on.

It was a little tricky getting them straight, so I used a scrap of angle iron to hold both the tang and bolt inline with each other for welding. 

Its common in drawknife practice to use a thin cupped washer over the ends of the handles.  This is better than plain wood for sure.  But its not that strong if you intend to reel down on a bolt to tighten a handle back up again.

I used full 1/8" thick brass sheet stock. No lightweight here!  I would have rather used a holesaw to cut the disks. But I didn't have one.  I had to use a fly cutter. These are rather awful but they work. Do 1/2 the depth at a time, then flip the work over to finish.

Rule number one, clamp down the work!!  You don't want any part of your body anywhere near this thing!!!  Next was making 1/8" thick flat disks into domes.  To the anvil, Robin!

I got my largest dome punch and set the largest cavity in my block on top.  A 2 pound sledge was employed with gusto.

These are not wimpy washers.

I needed nuts.  Similar to saw handle nuts. Some 1/2" brass bar stock was turned down and threaded.  Cutting the slot on top was a matter of hacksaw and needle file.