|
The legs are doubled 8/4 so essentially 16/4. I didn't want to see the seam so I mitered out a 3/8" dado and filled with a solid Wenge fascia on the rip miter. This is real handy to know and most woods are not available in 16/4 especially exotics like Wenge. This solution is invisible and pretty easy to do. Trim the fascias on a jointer with the fence at 45 degrees. I haven't seen this one in books and I have found it a valuable trick for many years. Q. That looks like a useful trick to hide the gluelines on the legs, but I'm not following how you cut the mitered 3/8" dado? Would you please elaborate? Before the 2, 8/4 boards are face laminated, I rip miter right on the edge about 3/8" deep. Then remove the 3/8 thick piece to the miter cut you just made. Now when they are laminated it leaves a mitered dado channel. This end right on the corner of the board.
Now I cut solid pieces to fill the void and hide the lamination....they are glued in place and held with clamps.
Then sand or plane the corners...see the link to the dining table that was all 4/4 and it looks like 16/4 with continuous grain. I use a digital caliper to set depths on the table saw and try the cuts on a scrap first. The table saw is a great tool if you really get into it... not physically though. Q. Mark - cool trick, but is there a secret to keeping the edges parallel when doing this on the jointer? Are you just roughing the 45 on the jointer then sneaking up on the seamless fit with handplanes or is your jointer and technique just way better than mine? First of all care needs to be taken to make sure the legs and fascias are square in both directions. Then on the table saw with a Board Buddy front and back to apply downward pressure, I cut the rip miters. If your table saw technique is good the fit off the table saw is real good to start with. I left them a bit fat so I could trim them to fit at the jointer. I make the Fascias about 1/16 thicker also. This allows you to round-over down to the miter using a scraper slightly inclined. At the jointer use 2 push blocks, one front and one back and push into the 45... so the pressure is down and also against the fence. When you hear the cut, move the push blocks on the second pass... try it in a leg... until you have a good fit. Since I resawed these from the same stock I can match the grain patterns on each leg. This is a big advantage over solid stock... just look at any of Krenov's door pairs... the bookmatching is from "real veneer" resawn from the same piece. It is a detail that elevates the quality to the next level... and on a 3 1/2" by 6" leg pair it is not an obvious solution as with door pairs. You can use hand planes on the miters and there is enough surface to support the plane or you can rip a pair of MDF runners at a 45 and shoot the edges with a plane... the jointer works fine and the grain of this coarse wood is an advantage here. Q. Neat trick on the legs Mark, hopefully filled away for a rainy day, thanks! Though it's a little labor intensive. I'd probably take the easy way and resaw matching veneers to cover the join instead. One could run that over a jointer or planer if needed to get the required thinness. Once the edge is broken the joint would disappear. I'm sure I would have better luck getting a tight seam that way but then I'm a miter hater from way back. The mitered fascias are essentially like corks going in a bottle. As long as all the angles are 45 degrees then the surfaces at the joint are in contact. Then you can plane or sand or round slightly to remove the excess and make a perfect joint. It is really pretty easy... and you don't have to be careful in dealing with a delicate veneer. The facias were first ripped with square edges on the table saw. Then edge jointed... run through the drum sander to thickness... a little fat... then rip on the table saw to 45 degrees… the bandsaw is not as accurate and the blade... even the trimaster leaves a saw texture... I used a 24 tooth Mastercut rip blade. The Board buddies insure the wood is on the table surface and the cut is accurate... if the piece moves up and down you made garbage. The leg trick will work for any other components that require lamination and the desire is for a solid continuous grain piece. Careful table saw layout, measuring, blade height and making trial samples of profiles on scrap will reduce further machine and hand work....a caliper is terrific for this ....using the blade extension to transfer measurements....that is the thin part that projects out of the tail ...a sample on scrap insures the profile.
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
