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This morning I assembled the cabinet for the first time. This is a dry assembly. Hinges get marked. Doors are rough trimmed... adjustments made... a finely set plane trims to it... the line for the rear ledger was marked... this holds the back that has a Wenge spline for expansion... one side is glued the other moves as required.
The rabbet lap joint on the corners allows movement.
The hinges were located at the door centerlines... 1/16" off the carcass face. The hinges are set pivot centered on base... pivot just at edge of door... this works well, if I remember correctly and allows about a 1/8 reveal for the door edge. The brass shelf pins are 2 pieces and the female portion was set. The base is basically the floor plan of this type of cabinet...just mark it all and know there is little room for error with these hinges and this type of cabinet
Q. Hi Mark, I'm enjoying watching your progress... what's your preferred method of fixing cracks? Do you use epoxy/sawdust as a filler? A. It is amazing that crack did not show once I planed the edge flush... Padauk and Shedua have cracks in the wood... it is like a wind shake in the Shedua and a drying crack in the Padauk... Hide glue forced into the crack and sand with 80grit by hand burnishing the wet glue in the crack. After it dries, sand with a finer grit, plane or scrape with a hand scraper. The hide glue does not effect the finish like Tight Bond or epoxy. Epoxy fills are colored different then the wood and will show, ok for very dark woods on medium and lighter woods it is hard to color match.
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