Learn How. Discover Why. Build Better. - Christopher Schwarz


Chairmaking Tools by Christopher Schwarz
Copyright 2006. This article originally appeared in the Fine Tool Journal

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Mallets with Machismo

In John Brown’s seminal book, “Welsh Stick Chairs” (Linden), there is a fantastic photo of him preparing to knock a leg home into its seat. With his arm fully extended back behind his head, Brown appears ready to hammer forge this joint. Before I started building stick chairs, I assumed Brown was having a little fun with his readers. After all, in cabinetmaking, if you have to hit a joint that hard, then it most likely is poorly made.

As it turns out, however, I can report that this photo speaks the truth.

Chair joints are designed to be tapered and under compression, so sometimes even a joint without glue will be impossible for a mere mortal to knock together or knock apart. You need a better hammer. Framing hammers will mar your work, and joinery mallets and dead-blow hammers are just two wimpy for the task.

You need a hammer that’s like a good bourbon: gentle enough to prevent any permanent damage, but strong enough to get – for lack of a better word – hammered when the time comes.

The VERITAS mallet has replaceable wooden faces that you can make using a hole saw. Small ridges cast into the head hold the wooden faces in place. The Garland hammer features a heavy cast-iron head that can hold a variety of striking faces. Simple loosen the nut below the head and the jaws open. For woodworking, I like the traditional faces made from water buffalo hide, though the nylon or urethane faces would also be useful.

 

I have two favorites.  These tools are such excellent gentle giants that I use them in my workaday furniture building, too.  Exhibit A is the split-head hammer from Garland Manufacturing.  This hammer is made in Saco, Maine, and is a serious piece of old-school engineering.  The head is cast iron and unscrews to accept a variety of hammer faces, including water buffalo rawhide, urethane, nylon and copper.  My hammer has rawhide in both faces, but you can mix and match as your work commands.  This hammer comes in five sizes (from a 1-1/4” diameter face on up to a 2-3/4”-diameter face) and can weigh between 1-1/2 lbs. up to a wrist-breaking 6-1/2 lbs.

The rawhide refuses to mark the work, and the cast iron behind it bends most things to its will. The hammers range in price from $32 to almost $76, a small price to pay for ultimate power.

A more refined and genteel hammer is the VERITAS Cabinetmaker’s Mallet.  This $25 mallet has an 18-ounce cast brass head and its faces are two replaceable wooden inserts that measure 1-1/2” in diameter.  Though it doesn’t have the authority of the Garland hammer, the VERITAS is well made and a bit more versatile.  The striking faces are angled so that the face always strikes your tool at 90°, which reduces glancing blows and increases your accuracy.  I use this mallet for striking chisels as much as I do to assemble and disassemble joints.

After several months of similar use the wooden inserts in the VERITAS mallet were quite beat up and ready for replacement while the Garland hammer’s rawhide heads were still quite fresh.

If you’re into chairmaking on a serious level, the Garland is probably the way to go. If you dabble in both chairs and cabinets and need a mallet that offers a good balance of finesse and power, I recommend the VERITAS.

 

A close-up view of the heads of these two fine hammers. I like both – luckily, I don’t have to choose between them.
 

 

 

Christopher Schwarz is the editor of Popular Woodworking magazine and a contributing editor to the Fine Tool Journal. He also teaches woodworking classes in hand-tool fundamentals.

For more information visit his website at Lost Art Press.
 

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