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The two end pieces were cut over length and width to allow material to be trimmed after gluing. The miters were finished with files and a shoulder plane until the fit was good. Hide glue was applied to the surfaces to be joined. The three pieces were clamped to a flat surface and together. When the glue set the finished piece was scraped and cut to size.
Completed miter detail on the lid. The line at the top is the edge of a rabbet. Veneering the Lid A photo in the book shows tulipwood crossbanding on the front edge of the lid. This was glued on first so the white edge of the crossbanding on the top would show. The veneer used on the lid was cut from the same piece of veneer used on the sliding cover and the front till. Since I was going to cover the entire lid with veneer and then cut away the part where the crossbanding was used I masked off a ¾ inch strip around the edge and the two stripes down the middle. This makes a weaker glue bond and easier removal of the veneer. Glue was spread on the lid and the veneer and then the masking tape was removed. The veneer was placed on the lid. The lid was placed top up of a ¾ inch piece of birch plywood and plastic wrap put over the veneer. Another piece of birch plywood was placed on top of the lid and then full ammo cans and bags of lead shot put on top of that to provide pressure. The lid was left for 24 hours. The ammo cans and plywood were removed. The excess glue was scraped off the lid. A cutting gauge was used around the perimeter to score the ¾ in line. A square and box cutter were used the score the lines for the vertical stripes near the middle. Chisels and a scraper were used to remove the veneer. The edge of the veneer was cleaned up with a small shoulder plane. The crossbanding was then cut to size and glued on. The lid was scraped smooth and sanded. Three coats of garnet shellac were applied and this was rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and Briwax. Installing the Lid The mortises for the hinges were already cut in the top edge of the frame. The center screw was installed in each hinge. When I put brass screws into hardwood I put in a steel screw covered with bees wax first. The till was placed on its back and the lid aligned with the back. At this point I realized the hinges I had bought were too narrow. I ordered larger hinges and had them in two days. I glued round toothpicks in the holes I had already drilled. The next day I enlarged the mortises in the frame and fit the lid again. This time the screw holes were far enough from the edge of the lid that I felt the screws would hold without cracking the wood. Since the lid was already finished I put cloth on the surface of the workbench and then put the lid on that. I cut the mortises for the hinges in the lid. The backs of the hinges were painted with machinist’s marking dye. I put the hinges on the carcase and then put the lid on top. The lid was aligned with the front of the till and lines scribed on the hinges using the back of the lid as a guide. I took off the lid and with the marked hinge held in place with a spring clamp drilled the center hole for each hinge. The hinges were fastened to the lid and carcase with one screw in each side of the hinge and the lid closed. The alignment was fine so I installed the remainder of the screws. A hole was drilled for the knob on the lid.
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